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Saturday, 12 May 2012

Shu Uemura Rouge Unlimited Swatches Part 1: Colours

These are the new Rouge Unlimited lipsticks, launched in Spring 2012. For more details, click through to the introduction.
For Part 2, the neutrals, click here.

I built up these swatches as necessary to show the colours most clearly (up to seven swipes for the 'very sheer' shades, only one swipe for the 'very pigmented' ones) -- see the notes for info on how pigmented each shade is.
In general, the sheerer the shade the more visible shimmer (the most shimmery shades are still less shimmery than Chanel Rouge Coco Shines however), and the more pigmented, the more like a traditional cream finish (zero shimmer, some balmy shine).

All pictures are taken in natural light, no flash. Click to enlarge.

Wine (WN), Mauve (MV), and Red (RD)
full sun



shade

WN295 v. pigmented
WN285 pigmented
WN255 sheer
MV275 pigmented
MV245 pigmented
RD185 pigmented
RD175 medium
RD170 pigmented
RD160 medium
RD155 medium
RD145 sheer


Pink (PK)
full sun


shade
PK300 v. sheer
PK315 sheer
PK320 medium
PK325 sheer and v. shimmery
PK335 sheer-medium
PK340 medium
PK345 v sheer
PK355 medium
PK365 pigmented
PK375 v. pigmented


Coral (CR) and Orange (OR)
full sun
shade
OR540 v. pigmented
OR530 medium
OR520 sheer
CR341 sheer and shimmery
CR330 medium
CR310 pigmented

Shu Uemura New Rouge Unlimited: Intro

Shu Uemura recently revamped their entire core lipstick line, launching fifty shades in a new Rouge Unlimited formula on April 1st in Japan. The packaging has also been tweaked to match the new Rouge Unlimited Supreme Shine range released in 2011.


I was a big fan of the old Rouge Unlimiteds, and for those of you who shared my love (and increasing poutiness as the shades were chopped into year by year), two warnings:
  1. these new lipsticks are entirely different textures, not a mere repackaging despite the repetition of certain shade codes/numbers
  2. no mattes D: (so we continue to wait for versions of classics like RD178M or PK360M)
The new lipsticks vary a bit colour-to-colour (to me, there seem to be three sub-categories which I'll note in swatches) but overall, they differ from the old formula thus (yes, thus):
  • totally scent-free, for those who disliked the faint candied orange blossom of the past
  • more shine and more balmy slip (rather than the older silky siliconey slip), like the popular modern jellied formulas Dior Addict/Extreme, Chanel Rouge Coco Shine or Lancôme Rouge In Love
  • (on my lips at least) not nearly as long-lasting or moisturising, though I don't find them quite as drying as I do the formulas above.
Some stats:
Old Rouge Unlimited: 3.8ml and 3.7g, also Made in Japan
New Rouge Unlimited: 3.7ml and 3.2g, Made in Japan
(making evident the lighter texture of the new ones -- see, it's not totally subjective!)

Ingredients for the NEW BK099




The swatches are split into two posts:
Part 1: Colours will feature the reds (RD), pinks (PK), corals (CR), oranges (OR), mauves (MV) and wines (WN).
Part 2: Neutrals the nudes/beiges (BG), browns (BR), black (BK) and white (WH).

Tuesday, 8 May 2012

Chanel Riviere Look #2

Please excuse the absolutely dreadful lighting and lack of close-up -- all pictures taken in sepia-toned smog.

A tweaked version of the first one, with a more rounded shape (the deepest shade blended upwards at the outer corner rather than extended in a fine line) and in warmer tones (a pinked apricot replacing the gilded pink, an olive bronze replacing the frankened teal).

Eyes: Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Rivière over the mobile lid and inner corner, with Rouge Bunny Rouge Fire-Tailed Sunbird in the socket and under the lower lashline and Abyssinian Catbird along the lashline and blended up at the outer corner.
Liner: KATE Supersharp Liner S BK-1
Mascara: Lancôme Hypnôse Drama W
Brows: Shu Uemura H9 pencil Stone Grey
Lips: YSL Rouge Pur Couture Glossy Stain 16 Poupre Preview
Base: Shu Uemura Stage Performer Instant Glow, Ellis Faas concealer S201 under eyes, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer SX01 on blemishes. No blush(!)

This new glossy stain formed part of my swap parcel, and you can gauge just how uncomfortable I am in such a fluoro cool colour by counting the numbers of of green (my comfort colour) and yellow (current fav'rite colour) I felt I needed to don
collar: ASOS // blouse: Topshop // nails: Essie Pretty Edgy // ring: personal gift

I also found a solution to perenial derp-face: the guillotine. Hey, it worked for Klimt. Probably needs more experimentation to make this work for makeup shots...
belt: vintage // skirt: Mango // shoes: Repetto // bustier: a mistake

Sunday, 6 May 2012

Magazines #2: Marie Claire Beauty Bible SS 2012

Anyone who's flipped through my pinboards will guess that I have a wee fashion magazine addiction, which has not been allocated its requisite % of drivel. And if you hadn't seen it, here's Part #1: Vivi Magazine, of what will imminently become a series.
 
 ...starting right now. Marie Claire Beauty Bible is a biannual cosmetics supplement which is sold independently of the main magazine in Hong Kong for the very accessible price of HK$20 (less than £2). It offers a tightly-edited rundown of the latest trends and new products each season with a cleaner layout and less padding/digressive random than Japanese beauty mags, which is why I try to pick up a copy whenever I can but also why I wouldn't keep one past its season.
cover

Beauty trends 
I enjoy the more fashion/runway tilt of these collages as distinct from Japanese magazines which focus more on the domestic OL market or target very specific subcultures  and rely on a small stable of house models with a fairly narrow range of eye/face shapes.
What a delicious variety of looks -- blue eyeshadow FTW

Graphic shapes to play with






The magazine's own spinoffs on the trend, on three different eyeshapes

I prefer their take on the "English Rose" thing to the minimalist runway pics (umpteenth clean skin, bambi lashes + slick of lip balm season, yawn)
I'm not sure if this is an intentional Beatles ref or the Engrish adjectival striking again. *ponders*



Hair trends
does what it says on the tin


yep

....seriously. Call me a saucy pedantic wretch but I think this answers my earlier Beatles question.

  
New Releases: false lashes oh wait, mascaras *eyeroll* We'll just look at the wands, then. The ones on the left give a more natural and the right a more dramatic look.




Tutorial: eyeliner
A back-to-basics primer about brushes, the differences between pencil, liquid and gel, and a few notes on tweaking your line to suit your eyeshape.



Editorial
I'm currently trying to work out ways to wear white eyeshadow and liner; this is both sharp and soft
Judge away, but I think this is kind of awesome and subverts the prim dress

Skincare articles: 10 pages on on various kinds of acids, some products featuring them and the best bases, concentrations and combinations. 
incidentally a flattering soft take on This Summer's Colour


most interesting to me: unfamiliar acids used in Asian whitening/brightening products





And a paean to that Asian beauty staple, lotion -- featuring products split into four types (ultra-hydrating, whitening, oil-production-balancing and anti-ageing) and thirteen ways to use the stuff, from the obvious (use it for facial massage! use it as a daily five-minute mask! mix it with your foundation to lighten the coverage and texture!) to the intriguing (use a cotton pad doused in SPF-containing lotion to blot the face and refresh cakey makeup? likewise, treat it as a makeup primer? and on a cotton bud, to clean up makeup mistakes and prep the skin for corrections).
some lotion-massage techniques


Due to copyright, I posted less than 10% of the magazine, but it should give you an idea of the house style. This issue also included extended features on foundations, nails, fashion, perfume, overnight skincare, 24 hour moisture, and the expected summer-issue pieces on pedicures, hair removal and dieting (boo!)