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Wednesday, 17 October 2012

Je Joue

Post title is le fromage. Sorry.

Jouer offers a new spin on the Laura Mercier / Trish McEvoy / Bobbi Brown / Burberry nexus of flattering, understated, polished makeup, but with this USP: superior textures. And another: lego packaging.

During the recent cultbeauty 25% off sale I acquired a Dahlia tint to slot onto the lonely Amaretto powder eyeshadow an American MUAer sent me last year.
nifty or nifty?

Amaretto is a pigmented-yet-delicate, silky smooth powder: it can be washed sheerly onto the lid with a fluffy brush as a subtle shimmer or built up on a densely packed paddle or liner brush for a more creamily metallic effect. The colour is a balanced taupey bronze with a cool plummy undercurrent -- a cooler, less-yellow version of Burberry Midnight Brown. Texturally it's closest to old-school (i.e. good) Stila -- digging in results in a little powder kick-up but no chalkiness once applied -- and its kind of delicate shimmer is as flattering as a Kanebo brand's on hooded or mature lids.

Dahlia is a clear berry in a gel-cream formula. I expected more of a stain from the name 'tint', but this formula turned out to be non-setting, dewy and semi-translucent one, more like a potted tinted balm (Fresh) or jelly lipstick (Guerlain Rouge Auto etc.) than either a liquid stain (Beauté) or conventional cream blush (Illamasqua, Becca, Bobbi Brown etc.) Like a tinted lipbalm, this needs touching up after drinks and meals on me, and wiped off easily with one swipe of a tissue. On my dry cheeks, it felt comfortable all day and while remaining dewy, didn't slide around or fade.


Swatches
natural light
Dahlia sheered out (with fingers) and built up (Hakuhodo Misako lipbrush) // One swipe of Amaretto with Suqqu M brush.


As my skin is pretty good right now, I went base-free (except for a dab of Burberry concealer 01 under eyes) to play up the modern English rosiness of these colours and textures:
I swear there's no extra shading -- Amaretto is one of those catches-the-light differently shades which look more complex once worn on the contours of the eye.

Other products:
Browlash EX Natural Brown pencil through brows
RBR Automatic Eye Pencil Salome to line
GOSH White Kohl on waterline
last gasp of Fasio Ultra Curl Lock Volume mascara


So simple I'm embarrassed to show you close-ups
RBR Salome and Jouer Amaretto
Jouer Dahlia on lips -- no balm under or over, all the dewiness is its own 

It's not often my makeup takes under five minutes these days so I had time for some bonus shots, of my outfit -- the long sludgy cable jumper I made in April but recently re-buttoned, paired with a Markus Lupfer gold sequinned miniskirt (AW 2011).

Out of shot: lacy burgundy tights and my latest shoe love, these clumpy Clarks (apologies to MUAers who've seen these a bazillionty times already):

Matchy-matchy mani with Zoya Paloma, a clear berry jelly. And a closer look at the buttons :D They're wood and look like tiny tree trunk cross-sections... slightly cross-eyed ones. The buttons and me. I take this coordination thing very seriously.
washed-out bathroom lighting, sorry

Have you tried anything from Jouer? Thoughts and recommendations much appreciated :) I feel like this is a niche brand that was building buzz a few years ago but then faded away into the background.

Monday, 15 October 2012

Drivel In Brief: Before the Booker 2012

I mentioned a few weeks ago that an offline friend had challenged me to read more contemporary literary fiction. And a few folks had e-poked me to blog more bookish things, which I immediately and enthusiastically began putting off, and putting off... until now, about an hour before the announcement of the winner of the Booker prize 2012, which is my last chance to SPEW ALL THE THOUGHTS*.

*'thoughts' may be stretching it <---- artistic licence, yo.


So this is kind of cheating because the shortlist came out weeks ago, but even before the longlist was announced I was fairly sure I would be cheering for Hilary Mantel's Bring Up the Bodies.  For stars-aligned-ish reasons: she's one of my favourite novelists (one of the few whose entire varied backlog I've tracked down and devoured); historical fiction is one of my favourite genres and one she particularly excels in (my introduction to Mantel was her richly multifocal French Revolution novel, A Place of Greater Safety and Bring up the Bodies shares that completely unpretentious and consummately precise dense prose style); early modern English history was my academic ghetto; and rehabilitations of historical 'villains' -- especially the practical backroom machiavellian types who, y'know, get shit done -- are another particularly strong literary kink; this book is composed of all those things and it considers them too -- there's nothing I fall for more quickly and more deeply than genuinely profound meta, about stories and histories, and their telling (so metametameta, then :P)
Unfortunately, as a sequel that continues her 2009 Booker-winning Wolf Hall in every way [did I mention I have a soft spot for the middle books of trilogies too?] its literary-qualities-aside chances of winning are about 0.0000000001%. The concluding volume might have a shot in 2016? XD

*EDIT* Mantel WON! :D


My runner-up favourites, which didn't make the shortlist:


Nicola Barker, The Yips -- another favourite writer -- this woman does dialogue and dark comedy (with a capital c and a small c and many a chaotically expletive c) with barmy panache. If you aren't sure she's your thing [though if you can put up with my kind of drivel I suspect you will find her v. readable] Wide Open is probably the best balance of representative and accessible. For me, Darkmans remains her richest offering so far.




Ned Beauman, The Teleportation Accident -- another deranged manic-comic historico-science-fictional satire, with thankfully a bit more heart than I expected. Ware if you hate high style, broad farce and extravert postmodernity. The protagonist is called Loeser and introduced as 'a total prick,' so....no refunds.






My favourite book which did make the shortlist but isn't Mantel's -- the kind of default reasoning that lies behind most Booker winners, as far as I can tell, so it has a proper shot :P -- is Alison Moore's The Lighthouse.
On the face of it, everything I steer clear of: a slim volume heavily freighted with portentous puff about hyumin-naychure-troofs-thereof on the back, whose action, such as it is, mostly consists of internal emotional involute-ish tangles, all in minimalist prose and a wide-spaced font. It is very much the typical lit fic piece I would never have bothered with were it not for Teh Challenge, and it's absolutely bloody brilliant. I finished it at 3am, emotionally shattered and philosophically shaken, and flipped right back to the beginning again. If there's one book you should try from this list, this is it. Especially if you like perfume.



The rest of the shortlist I would not back FOR REASONS:


Deborah Levy, Swimming Home -- this straddled Rachel Joyce's Harold Fry and Moore's Lighthouse and for me; while it highlighted the creaking of the plot and slightly hollow overreaching in the former, it was just totally outclassed by the latter, appearing slight and conventional in its turn. I did find all three about equally (and surprisingly) easy and pleasurable reads -- totally not taking 'difficulty' as a guarantee of depth here.



Which is why I can't really drivel about the current frontrunner, Will Self's Umbrella, the only book on this list I didn't finish. Because copious amounts of alcohol and a new lipstick were required to bribe me through the first 100 and the last 3 pages [personal rule] of this naked-imperial bollocks. At least I have a topical new example of 'not a book to be lightly tossed aside but flung with great force' (preferably via canon at end of ten-foot bargepole, aimed at deepest darkest crevasse on earth).





Jeet Thayil, Narcopolis -- a technically brilliant writing exercise (first novel from a poet), which is as much its weakness as strength for me -- too composed. Still worth it for the ride, even if heady hallucinatory underbelly trips aren't usually up your literary alley.




Tan Twan Eng, The Garden of Evening Mists was probably my biggest disappointment. I mean, I knew I hated Will Self going in, but I had heard such brilliant things about this writer and this book's setting (WWII to present day Malaya) and themes come only second to Thomas Cromwell in closeness to my heart. The contents are fascinating -- I've already recommended it to a few poco friends who've enjoyed it far more than I did; for most readers of this blog I think the diversions into the aesthetic discourses of Japanese gardens and tattooing would be v. appealing -- they were by far my favourite aspects of this book too. Sadly, the prose. It is clunky. Clunky like BL Gobsmacked is gloopy and Illamasqua powders are powdery: at times the tone-deafness achieves a kind of awe-inspiring platonic quintessence of clunk.




Rest of the longlisted-onlies: 


Michael Frayn, Skios -- because I'm a tricksy fox like that, here's a writer, a genre (farce) and settings (Greece, cultural institutions) I love....and a resounding meh of a book. There are mistaken identities and bed tricks and a plot that runs entirely on bad puns and two twin cab drivers called Spiros and Stavros. Sometimes even the lemoniest souffles will fall :(






Rachel Joyce, The Unlikely Pilgrimage of Harold Fry -- as mentioned above, likeable but just too slight, too neat, too Radio 4 (sorry, cheap shot -- and to be fair I can't do my makeup without R4 on). I have a feeling this might appeal to those who liked the concept of J.K. Rowling's Casual Vacancy but found it a bit...unremitting.






André Brink, Philida -- another book I would've read even without the litfic challenge, and would still recommend to most, but with some warnings I wish I'd've been given: while compelling and engaging and with some nice prosing, this is closer to The Help populism than to Coetzee-calibre artistry. And even the witty knitting metaphors (!) couldn't mask the sudden fizzling-out of story towards the end.




Sam Thompson, Communion Town has a totally-my-thing concept and a lot of good, just showoffy enough but not obnoxiouslyWillSelfish prose ventriloquism going on. But it aint no novel, it's most definitely a short story collection. In the longlist it sits closest to The Teleportation Accident, and despite the chaotic exuberance of that, it's Communion Town that left me (me!) calling for a bit more restraint. A bit more selective editing, perhaps? Good lord, this litfic stuff does broaden one's mind. But I maintain that many 'proper' (okay, marketed-as) spec-fic writers have done this kind of thing already, and done it better. In the 15 seconds before the winner announcement: Catherynne Valente, Jeff VanDerMeer, China Miéville, Michael Moorcook, Brian Aldiss....



Yeah, 'in brief' was really stretching it. Cookies for anyone who made it this far :D Have you read any of these or do you plan to? Any recs for more? (I'm about done with the Orange prize longlist now.) Or spiny fish you'd like to slap me with for dissing your homeboy Will. etc.

Sunday, 14 October 2012

Saturday Swatchfest: Becca, Bite, YSL

A random grab bag from my recent wanderings around the beauty halls:
1. New Becca Beach Tints
2. Bite Beauty High Pigment Matte Pencils
3. YSL Christmas 2012 Northern Lights Collection

More UK PSAs:

  • Suqqu is offering a base makeup kit with every purchase of foundation until October 28th, which includes a 10g tube of Face Protector SPF50, a 5g pot of Nuancing Loose Powder in Glow and a nice leather/satin pouch.
  • Burberry Lip Velvets (which I'd been anticipating ever since Diabolus in Cosmetica's excellent posts) will be released nationwide on October 14th.
  • Selfridges has testers for the Guerlain Holiday 2012 Liu collection right now; but the Dragon meteorites (both loose and pressed) won't be available for purchase from next week.
  • Chanel Holiday 2012 will be launched on November 4th.
  • On November 7th, we'll be getting seven new shades of Glossy Stain as part of YSL's New Vintage winter collection.
  • Finally, on 3-for-2 in Boots and seriously awesome: Barry M Gelly Hi-Shines (swatches).

On to the swatches!

1. Becca Beach Tints (£20) are some of my favourite multipurpose products. Reliably waterproof yet easily removed, matte without being drying, each tube contains a ridiculously blendable siliconey gel-cream which works beautifully on lips and cheeks. Only caveat: revolting synthetic 'fruity' scents that thankfully do fade soon after application.
The new shades are Lychee (light, bright cool pink), Dragonfruit (vivid pink-red, the best and most pigmented texture of the line) and Papaya (warm mid-tone orange).

Some comparisons with pre-existing Beach Tint shades: Payapa is brighter and more definitely orange than Peach, but warmer and less red than Strawberry. And Lychee is peeeeenk. Sorry, cropping fail.
natural light

Lychee is much cooler and brighter than the coral-pink Guava, and less pastel (has less white pigment). Raspberry is cooler still, but in a more muted way. Watermelon is a much softer pink-red to Dragonfruit's brighter red-pink. See how warm Papaya looks grouped with this batch?
natural light
My counter did not have testers for Fig (browned nude) or Grapefruit (muted light warm peach).



2. Bite Beauty High Pigment Matte Pencils (£24) are twist-up lipsticks in chubby pencil form. They are high-pigment but aren't particularly matte, more of a satin-cream finish, and are very comfortable to wear, even on my dry lips. The darker and brighter colours last for hours and fade evenly into a good stain after a heavy meal.
Their display in Selfridges' new beauty workshop doesn't have all the shades currently listed on Sephora (for $24 I might add) but here are the ones I caught (one swipe each):
natural light, shade (they retain a bit of sheeniness even so)






PS here's a picture from April I took for a friend and never meant to blog, but then I realised it's the only picture of Pomegrante I have to hand. A rare example of me doing the bare-face-red-lips thing (so unbalanced, so American-Francophile cliché, so myfaceissopinkack! >.< Please to scroll past like the wind.)
yeah, I still curled my lashes :P Complex Standards, I haz.




3. YSL Northern Lights Collection is one of the first Christmas releases to hit our shores and if this is a harbinger of things to come, my finances are in serious trouble... I admit to having a bit of a thing for Aurora-themed makeup-themed makeup but GUYS. These pigments. They are so complex I don't even.
Swatches made with fingertips, patted on dry. 
natural light + sun
ditto, deliberate fuzziness
#07 Eyeliner Effet Faux Cils Etoile Dorée (limited edition) is a smooth metallic ochre. As with all these liners, flawless pigmentation and texture. This swatch wouldn't smear or flake even after a good scrubbing with a makeup remover wipe, but came off easily with cleansing oil.

#12 Pure Chromatics quad (permanent) is a stunning neutral/smokey palette with a kick. In particular, I love the red duochrome running through the charcoal satin (leftmost shade) and the complex sparkly champagne taupe (third from left).

Nuit Artique is a limited edition Pure Chromatics quad (these are designed to be used wet and dry) and the standout for me is the leftmost metallic burgundy scattered with blue glitter, nestled among three gradational blue sparkles. I LOVE red-blue combinations and was sorely tempted by this. The dud in the palette is the cornflower (far right) which had a tendency to shed its gritty silver dandruff.

Barely visible on the bottom left is the limited edition Boréal highlighter compact, Lumière Polaire, which reads as a hint of pink iridescence on my skin, without visible shimmer.


I womanfully braved the melon stench of the two limited edition Golden Glosses, #55 Bleu Artique (palest yellow base with larger blue and smaller green sparkles) and #56 Rose Polaire (milky pink base with larger purple and smaller gold and green sparkles).

There is one more limited edition standout of this collection, and that's the delicate nail polish topcoat in 33 Première Neige. Of which more later, as (ahem) it seems to be twinkling at me from my desk right now.