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Tuesday, 5 November 2013

Angling For More? 45º In Brief

Worry not, this will be far less testing (of your patience) than the last diagonal epic ;)

Another small panel from the September Maquia's 45º angled makeup feature caught my eye, as it provides a short-cut to the most interesting technique for me -- that particular diagonal, fractionally in-set-from-the-end-of-the-eye wing.

Again, I'd like to thank Claire from Land of Lorp for sharing with me the article from which this scan hails. Hop over for further details of the main 45º tutorial, and for even more inspiration from Maquia.

This accent wing is placed atop a finished, neutral, slightly elongated eye, for which I used a delicate gold shimmer all over the lid and inner 2/3 of the lower lashline, with a grey satin smoked straight out from the outer portions of both upper and lower lashlines; both shades from Suqqu 06 Ginbudou quad (review). The hot pink wing is Kiko Long Lasting Stick Eyeshadow 30 Shiny Fuchsia (swatch) and overall colour scheme is inspired again by Suqqu EX-16 Benichagasane (the autumn quad I didn't buy).

The wing differs from that in the main tutorial, as the 'horizontal' is now established by extrapolating from the curve of approx. the last 5mm or so of the eyelid, and then the wing is placed at a 45º angle above it. Because my upper eyelid is more curved than the Maquia model's (who has longer eyes), my wing looks more curved with my eyes open, and swerves further from the extended corner of the eye, even though it's drawn on a straight line :
Compared to the original 45º look, which places the flick in relation to the inner half of the lower lashline, this wing is also even more sharply angled upwards, but on me at least, it doesn't provide more of a natural lift so much as holler "HAI, I AM A WING!" Which is why it's so suited to brights, to up the playful artificiality quotient even more. :D

As I love makeup that calls attention to itself as makeup, I loved this variation. Bonus, it only takes 30 seconds on top of a 2 minute basic neutral eye. The full five-minute face also includes Addiction Amazing cheekstick for blush, and Guerlain Gala Rouge G on lips, with base again a combination of Shu Uemura Underbase Cream in Pink topped with Rouge Bunny Rouge Sea of Tranquility (airiest pale pink+gold) highlighter.
Mascara is Fasio Full Dynamic Volume, brows filled with Shu Uemura H9 pencil in Seal Brown.

Without: do you agree that the wing doesn't really lift the eye so much as just BE PINK? :D


Again, I'd love to hear from anyone who tries this trick -- and it's so much easier/quicker than the full on geometric version, it's practically mandatory. I loved hearing from everyone in response to the last post both here and on Makeupalley, and in particular seeing Anne from Rushing Glam's two takes on the original 45º technique, which explores how different colour palettes changes its effects.

20 comments:

  1. Okay, that pink wing is too cute. :3 You're right, the higher angle kind of makes it cartoony and extra-fun.

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    1. so all I need to do is wear my knickers outside my trousers and I'll be able to fly, right? :D

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  2. My mind works in crazy ways. I love that you used pink for the wings because I'm looking at them, letting my mind do its loopy thing... and to the creative me, it looks you're wearing the devil's horns on your eyes. It's crazy FUN!! I love it!!! I MUST try this :-P

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    1. I love your loopy mind! *slurps lily brains* :D

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  3. I like this look. I suspect that it would work better with more mature (saggy) skin than a traditional flick. It is almost impossible to do a decent flick on my left eye, due to that issue. So, if I do it this way, I avoid the whole issue. Plus I like makeup like you do too. This could be cute in dark blue or purple. But you could do it in brown or black to enhance your outer lashes. :)

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    1. You raise a great point. One reason I'm so in love with these 45 degree things is that they use different 'horizontals' to establish symmetry rather than just the regular 'follow your lower lashline curve' thing -- very effective for asymmetrical, hooded eyes like mine.

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  4. It also just occurred to me that this might be a good look for those with glasses, to bring the attention back to the eye, instead of to the glasses.

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    1. Also true. You can see Anne JF's results with it in the link :)

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  5. You know, I've been trying this technique since Sunday! And feels like I'm getting addicted to it, even when I still struggle with the lower wing. I gues this is the one you were telling me the other day, I think I might try it with teal... let's see how it goes. I remember I heard once the rec to do this kind of line for the droppy eye. I'll be posting more results of my research using this technique :)

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    1. Yes ma'am! :) I love the way you really put a technique through its paces with different colours etc. :D

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  6. You little devilish cute creature! Love it!

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  7. Actually, I do think the pink wing does a fair job in perking things up! The wings have a cartoon-y, feline effect that is really fun to look at. d ^___^ b

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  8. This is wing frivolity at its best! Love the accent wing, and I think it only gives a lift depending on the eye shape, etc. In fact, I think had your wings were a darker color, it may add a "falsie" effect -- sort of mimicking falsies from afar but up close one may see it as a drawn wing. I don't know, just my guess. I may try this tomorrow, I've got this really lovely colored Guerlain duo that is such a bad shadow but is good applied damp, maybe I can use the darker color as the accent wing.

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    1. Yes, you're right! Looking closer at the diagram I think I also made the wing a bit too fat (hence all the horn comments! lol) whereas in the original tute they have the INNER edge of the wing stop right at that line. How did your experiment go? :)

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  9. I gave this a try this morning, with black gel liner. It looks great! Even though I have that saggy skin on my left eye. I'm so happy. :D

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    1. YAY! :D And btw, your eye looks very pretty in your profile pic :P

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  10. If there's one person in the entire world thay suits a pink eye wing that totally looks like devil's horns (I second that, Lily!), it must be Driveller Kate. The whole 45 angle technique still boggles me slightly (I can't follow instructions... must take a nap), but I liked the outer half shadow placement in the original/lengthy article, and the second wing :)

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    1. lol :D I fully support all nap and snack breaks on principle.
      It is a little worrying how much I use that hot pink shadow stick *looks shifty*

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