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Showing posts with label brand: Estee Lauder. Show all posts
Showing posts with label brand: Estee Lauder. Show all posts

Thursday, 23 August 2012

Field Notes: Autumn 2012 Swatches

A mixed bag of recent dabblings in department stores: Chanel Blue Illusion, YSL Rouge Pur Couture Les Mats, and Estée Lauder Vivid Shine collections.

1. Chanel Blue Illusion was previewed at the Haute Couture SS 2012 show and I'd been anticipating the two new (limited edition) Illusion D'Ombre cream shadows (both blues! one light, one dark) ever since -- given the idiosyncrasy of fashion seasons, we're talking months of calf-eyed mooning over backstage closeups here.
And after swatching them repeatedly over the past month? Resounding meh.
Swatches fom least to most light (natural):
swatches Chanel Blue Aerien Illustion D'Ombre Apparition Destination
The liner (Blue Aerien) is a moderately pigmented mid-tone blue matte with sparse silver shimmer that's only visible once blended out (second swatch). As with all non-shimmery Chanel pencil liners, I found it to apply patchily and to tug on my dry skin.
Both Illusion D'Ombre Apparition (deep blue-grey with silver, green and very sparse pink microshimmer) and Destination (silvery blue with the same microshimmer) are softly shimmery, moderately pigmented mousses like Rivière rather than the creamier, denser, more pigmented and much sparklier original lineup of shades (or the latter releases Abstraction and Vision).
All shades are limited edition and are available in the Oxford Street John Lewis and Selfridges in London -- may be able to order these by phone.


2. YSL Rouge Pur Couture Les Mats is a new, permanent collection of six shades of modern matte lipsticks: touted-as-moisturising, with a good bit of siliconey slip to ease application, but long lasting and highly pigmented, corrective satin rather than flat matte -- cf. Chanel Rouge Allure Velvets or Lancôme Colour Design Mattes.
I found these very impressive -- in particular 202 Rose Crazy, 203 Rouge Rock and 204 Rouge Scandal were intensely and smoothly pigmented -- although the darker 205 Prune Virgin (!) and 206 Grenat Satisfaction looked a little patchy on one swipe, and 201 Orange Imagine needed three-four layers to reach the opacity of the other shades.
YSL Rouge Pur Couture Les Mats matte lipstick swatches 201 Orange Imagine, 202 Rose Crazy, 203 Rouge Rock, 204 Rouge Scandal, 205 Prune Virgin, 206 Grenat Satisfaction
Based on the look and performance of 203 Rouge Rock on my delicious friend Mira Sundari, even through some epic ice-cream-and-waffle-nomming, I think these are worth every penny of their £23.50 pricetag and tacky gold packaging.


3. Estée Lauder Vivid Shine features a mix of limited edition and permanent shades, providing a bonanza of autumn-collection-awesome: saturated jewel tones, icy pastels, and unashamed sparkle being the main themes.
The eyeshadows are re-stamped but not reformulated from last year's Cyber Eyes release and the molten wet-or-dry "Illuminating Powder Gelee" formula was also used in this summer's limited edition Bronze Sands quint; a step up from MAC's Extra Dimension formula from spring. I finger-swatched these dry, because the EL counters were heaving in contrast to Dior, Lancôme and others, but you can hopefully extrapolate how much more intense they would be used wet based on Lipglossiping's excellent swatches from last year.

All swatches in natural light, without flash. I angled for fuzziness in the bottom pictures. Starred items are limited edition.
Estee Lauder eyeshadow swatches Cyber Silver, Arctic Sky, Cyber Ice, Cyber Pink
Arctic Sky is the only sheer sparkle in this batch; Cyber Silver and Cyber Pink are more pigmented and metallic-glittery while Cyber Ice is an all-out frost.

Estee Lauder eyeshadow swatches Cyber Copper, Cyber Gold, Lights Out, Cyber Green
As you can see, Cyber Green hasn't been tweaked to match its name since the original release. It's still a black warmed by copper, green and gold sparkle. Cyber Green along with Lights Out and Cyber Copper were the driest in texture and would need to be packed on with a very heavy hand or foiled with water/mixing medium to display much complexity on the eye.

Estee Lauder eyeshadow swatches Cyber Ruby, Magenta, Electric Orchid, Cyber Lilac
Cyber Lilac is the most complex and pigmented of this batch, and one of the shades that really show off this new formula's balance of pigment, creaminess and complex sparkle -- a great
illustration of why Estée Lauder makeup has been making a comeback in recent seasons. Cyber Ruby is a rich rose-brown with, yep, ruby and fuchsia shimmer; even softer are Electric Orchid and Magenta which balance gloriously unsubtle the-eighties-are-back tones with less textural bling.

Estee Lauder eyeshadow swatches Pop Pistachio, Ultramarine, Cyber Teal, Fire Sapphire
This last set mixes a sheer sparkle (Fire Sapphire) with two moderately-pigmented shimmers (yellow-green Pop Pistachio and blue-green Ultramarine) and another complex metallic glitter, Cyber Teal.
The first thing that struck me about these was their similarity to a few Addiction Aurora Reflection shades I owned. While Addiction are a step up still in texture, complexity and greater colour payoff, these EL shades are worth looking into as accessible relations. (Ignore Magenta peeking out on the right there.)
Estée Lauder Fire Sapphire is the less-pigmented twin to Addiction Blue Moon.
Estée Lauder Pop Pistachio is a flatter, less-sparkly, yellower cousin to Addiction Silent Scream.
Estée Lauder Cyber Teal is much more tauped (greyed and browned) and less, well, teal than Addiction Deep Forest.

Finally, some very messy field swatches of what seemed to be to be the four sparkliest nail polishes in the new line. From index to pinky: Smashed, Molten Lava, Explosif and Chaos.

[While I can't fault Tom Pecheux's eye, I do question whose nose in Haus Lauder is responsible for keeping that lurid fig scent in their lip products, season after season -- the latest batch of Pure Colour lipsticks did seem wonderfully moisturising and lushly pigmented, for those of you who like that kind of thing. There was a killer coral in the line too, from what I could tell between dry-heaves.]

Thursday, 15 March 2012

New Lancome and Estee Lauder foundation swatches

To cut to the chase: Estee Lauder Invisible is an awesome formula that's impressed me more than any other in a long time -- a lightweight, applies-perfectly-with-fingers-and-without-a-mirror milk that seems to give a natural satin finish on almost all skintypes, and good medium+ coverage while hardly adding any texture to the skin. All this without any of the drying, irritating alcohol with which the likes of Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua and most popular Japanese milk sunscreens are filled.

Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra 24Hour...not so much. Full of alcohol yet dragging upon application and setting to an unflattering flat matte finish, while offering only marginally more coverage than Invisible, it actually seems to me to be a barely evolved version of Estee Lauder's most dated formula, DoubleWear. It does however beat Invisible in offering a much wider shade range -- I've swatched the palest shades from both formulas, with some other foundations for context.

foundation swatch Bobbi Brown Moisture Rich Foundation 00 Alabaster Make Up For Ever Mat Velvet+ 15 Lancôme Teint Miracle 005 Teint Idole Ultra 24 Hour 005 (007 is a little darker and quite a bit pinker) Estee Lauder Invisible 1N1 Estee Lauder Invisible 1CN1 Laura Mercier Silk Creme Soft Ivory Suqqu Frame Fix Cream 101
Bobbi Brown Moisture Rich Foundation 00 Alabaster
Make Up For Ever Mat Velvet+ 15
Lancôme Teint Miracle 005
Teint Idole Ultra 24 Hour 005 (007 is a little darker and quite a bit pinker)
Estee Lauder Invisible 1N1
Estee Lauder Invisible 1CN1
Laura Mercier Silk Creme Soft Ivory
Suqqu Frame Fix Cream 101

I wondered before sampling why Invisible didn't have a 1W(arm)1 shade as other Estee Lauder foundations do... and now I know it's because both the 1N(neutral)1 and 1C(ool)N(eutral)1 shades run warm yellow. If you wear another EL foundation, I'd recommend 'sizing cool' in this one -- if you wear W, try N. If you wear N, try CN. If you wear C... best of luck but don't get your hopes up.

For your amusement, here is me testing an extremely light layer of Invisible 1CN1, with further washing-out by my camera:
(I don't know why but I thought some other slap would mitigate the horror: Magie Deco Shadow Brilliance II DC030, Majolica Majorca Lash King mascara, Sensai The Lipstick 21 Shirafuji.)

Seriously, Lauder Corp, pale shades we can haz?